Antananarivo II

Panoramic look at Tana.

I have enjoyed walking with Kristen to work these last few days. The mornings right now are crisp and cool; most Malagasy wear jackets or sweaters, but I am comfortable in shirt-sleeves. By the time we've eaten and left the hotel, the city is already at a bustle. Most people walk fast and with a purpose. Cars jam the narrow streets and taxis fill and empty with fares. On the many stairs that connect the upper and lower sections of the city—and spare you from all the cars—it's not uncommon to see somebody taking stairs by pairs, evidently late for some rendezvous. If it weren't for the pollution, I'd feel invigorated by all the activity.

Somebody told us that an air sample taken in the tunnel of Antananarivo was as poor as Mexico City's in quality. I suppose elevation, topography, and lower (absent) emissions standards contribute to the poor air quality. Tana is nearly as high as Denver and its streets coil around and up and down the surrounding hills. This kind of layout makes it seem perfect for trapping stale air. Yesterday, after seeing Kristen off to work and exploring the city, I made the mistake of walking through the tunnel, which was packed with cars and trucks. I breathed through my shirt, but even still I emerged feeling dirty. Later, back at the hotel, I blew my nose and the tissue came away sooty.

Before the nasty tunnel experience, I walked along Lac Anosy, a good-sized lake in the lower part of town. There I found stalls filled with exotic plants and cut flowers. If I had to guess, I'd say the plants have their provenance from the tropical forests and the flowers are plantation grown. I wonder if ex-patriots fuel this market for plants and whether these plants are harvested sustainably. I have my doubts.

One thing we struggle to understand about Madagascar is why their poverty is so great. A few development workers we've talked to see Madagascar at the bottom of the heap, even behind places in West Africa. But to us, we see tons of activity and interest by outside donors an